After a lazy morning, a breakfast burrito from the local diner, and some route planning for the next section, a pile of hikers headed north from Pie Town. The eight of us, ranging in age from 23 to 66, made easy work of the dirt road walk and landed at our destination by dinner time. The TLC Ranch, located right on the trail, is a rustic stop for hikers where water, fresh fruit, and sometimes dinner are provided. Our humble and incredibly generous hosts, Larry and Charity, moved to this parched piece of land a few years ago and have been hosting travelers on the divide ever since.
We quaffed lemonade, and ate biscuits, smoked chicken and baked potatoes to our hearts content. The pieces de resistance, though, were a Baileys Pecan and blueberry cream cheese pie. Though hikers and their hosts kept their distance as a covid precaution, the meandering after-dinner conversation reminded me how much I have missed random encounters with strangers while traveling.
The next 100 miles of trail followed the Chain of Craters trail through the El Mapais national monument but about half of the hiker bubble opted to hike the Cebolla cutoff, which added beautiful canyon views and cut the distance to grants by 25 miles. Myself, Peaches, and Sock Drawer set off together and decided to stick to the trail, which rolled through dusty cow pasture, rough lava flows, and over rocky volcanic formations.
The three of us ended up pushing three consecutive 30+ mile days, so we could arrive in Grants before dark on the last day. The allure of town food and cold beverages was strong, though the last few miles of asphalt road walking had me second guessing my choice to push through.
So far the CDT has met my expectations. It’s been beautiful, rugged, and occasionally difficult to follow. At times I have been isolated but there have also been piles of hikers at random intervals. Despite a 9 year break, my brain and my body feel at home on the trail. The steady rhythm and routines of the daily walking are a welcome change from the preceding 16 months of uncertainty.
