Sometimes things go right with little effort. My day in Pinedale was anything but effortless. Everything seemed off, despite a lack of major setbacks, each thing I did seemed sluggish. Breakfast was eaten, blog post were written, coffee was quaffed, and supplies were acquired; yet everything seemed rushed. Perhaps it is the fault of my circadian rhythm, so attuned to the sun, I can no longer sleep past sunrise? Or maybe my body is finally starting to loose the energy I had hoped would keep my feet churning for four straight months? Maybe I just need more espresso?
Grumbling all the way back to the trailhead, I tried not to share my negativity with the helpful trail angel who gave us a lift. The sun sunk in the sky, and I lugged my backpack back into the heart of the Wind River Range. Gangs of mosquitoes made the most of my aversion to Deet, as I munch the Italian Sub I had packed out. It needed more mayonnaise. Though, to be fair, everything needs more mayonnaise when you’re walking 14 hours a day. We make camp a few miles from where we will rejoin the CDT and I’m asleep as soon as my head hits the stuff sack I use for a pillow.
The next morning I endeavor to leave my bad attitude at the campsite and the views on the climb to Titcomb Basin make the job easy. One of the most spectacular places I have ever been, Titcomb basin is full of clear lakes and surrounded by glacier-covered peaks. An afternoon coffee stop is interrupted by the curious sight of a helicopter dropping trout into the nearby alpine lakes. I wonder if the abundant fly fisherman care that the fish on the end of their lines are flown in from nearby farms?
Ascending from Titcomb, the trail fades uphill into a large swath of boulders and scree. Cloudy glacial streams move the mountain downhill, a few grains at a time. The pack on my back, full of food, makes the steep scramble and short snow traverse to Knapsack Col a little more exciting but the views from the saddle are well worth the sweat and soreness. I have lunch in the grassy valley below Knapsack Col and am thankful for cold streams to fill up my water bottles and rushing waterfalls to act as the meal’s entertainment.
The rain kicks on after lunch and follows us as we flow down the Green River Valley. I’m soggy, and muddy, and hovering on cusp of uncomfortable cold but the views of Flattop Mountain and the deep green color of the river keep my spirits high. Just as it’s time to set up my tarp, the rain halts long enough for me to erect my little shelter and escape the outdoors for a night’s worth of sleep.
The following day brings similar weather, a steep climb up Gunsight Pass, and the fist set of grizzly prints I’ve laid my eyes on. The terrain varies wildly from flat sage brush and lush prairie, to dense pine forest and spring-fed marshland. The only consistency is the afternoon rain and my yellow plastic ponchos attempt to repel it. I tuck in to a good sci-fi audiobook and do my best to encourage soggy feet to continue moving. Respite comes in the form of a dank yurt park on USFS land near a jeep road. I light the wood stove and ignore the mouse poop on the bunk bed where I lay out my groundsheet and sleeping bag. The rain picks up and I’m thankful for the mostly waterproof roof over my head.
With only 3 miles to the road, I let myself sleep in. Grateful to be dry and headed for town, I cover the morning miles and feel like I’m floating. At the road, it takes almost an hour to catch a ride into the town of Dubois. The driver let’s us out at a downtown cafe and I’m greeted by two of my best and oldest friends. Having driven from Wisconsin in their campervan named Berg, Frodo (Travis) and Laura Pernsteiner made a stop in this small Wyoming town on the way to a vacation in the Wind River Range. It was a huge emotional boost to see my hiking partner from the AT. We reminisced about the miles we shared Appalachian Trail and enjoyed beers in the ‘living room’ of their van. As they left for the trailhead where their own adventure awaited, I waved well wishes and hoped for good weather on their behalf.
I tuck in to some ice cream and settle in to the hotel room I’m splitting with .3. I don’t plan on doing anything the rest of the day or all of tomorrow. My body desperately needs the rest and the Olympics need watching.
